Big Bend State Park:Pt I

2022-09-28

Number 18 in the Georgia and Back Series

We head out of Marfa, Texas toward Big Bend. There have been exceptional seasonal rains, making the countryside remind us of Sonoita, Arizona. We’re feeling more like home, after spending weeks in the eastern forests. There are not as many mountains, here, the horizon is quite a lot further out. A host of clouds run out from behind the edge of the Earth, drifting our way.

Cruising naked across these wide open spaces, just reeks of freedom.

As we reach the Rio Grande River, I’m reminded of Apache Lake, Arizona. There is less grass and vegetation, a desert, with contrasting water sitting in the middle.

At points, Mexico is just a few feet away.  The Mexico culture shows up in the border towns. It’s like two little towns looking at their images in a mirror.

We eventually light upon an historical tourist attraction. It’s a very old terminus, trading post, presidio, or essentially an olden time truck stop. We slip on some tourist clothes to explore.

Out back, there is a huge ox cart. It is, I suppose, the diesel big rig of its day. It has the look of something out of a Flintstones sequel. I am stunned by its size. I imagine a long string of oxen out in front, straining in the hard life desolation on a rutty dirt trail.

More imaginative speculation clicks in. There was safety in numbers. There must have been several of these traveling together as a caravan, or convoy across the dangerous terrain. This area is famous with stories about hostile natives and bandits. The thick walls with few windows are not just about heat.

I ponder what must have been carried in such a large cart. I imagine things that just couldn’t be found out here in the 1800’s, or manufactured. Household goods, metal for tools, but no perishables. What would be exchanged for these things? How would someone make a living? Was most everyone, just passing through?

I have to wonder what conditions possessed people to come out here to a place where it was claimed that there is no God. Was a better life predicated by greed, a swindler’s lies, or a sucker’s dreams? Was it so bad to the east? I have seen documentation of warehouses where people were given a coffin-like bed for four pence and felt lucky. There was usury, exploitation and slavery, and desperation. But, how bad could it have been? There is not much here now, and there wasn’t much back then and they came here anyway.

We discuss our needs for solitude with a local ranger assistant and ranger. They tell us of a few spots with fewer people during what is now off season. Our Honda Civic won’t make it up into the hills, where there is camping and trails in the desert mountains. We’ll find something near the river.  I am more than ready to have some freely nude roaming and accommodations. Texas past San Antonio has been such a huge area to cover with such a limited supply of naturist opportunities in and out of public lands.

We wander up and down the meandering road that always has a piece of the Rio Grande to the right. It is always within a half a mile. The river is life and the old road follows that.

There are a couple of turnoffs to explore. One looks like it could put us next to the river, if we walk. There are fun rock formations. Some may have been shelters at one time, or another.

We pass a slot canyon that will be fun to explore, tomorrow.

There is a large rock that looks like a boat cleat used to tie up a huge vessel bigger than the river. Perhaps the river was bigger and Paul Bunyan used it.

At last, we arrive at the campground that was recommended.

We circle around the dirt trail of a road. Each campsite is off of it. There is a primitive ramada for each and a number. The structures are rustic, reminiscent of a Native American sun screen. Each has a picnic table and a dusty grill.

After the first exploratory loop around, we inspect the rest of the area for any other campers.  The boat launch, which is a washed out piece of sandbar, we find is occupied by a mother, and two older boys. One has a quad. We note to listen for their activity, so we know when they have left, or not. They have a kayak, but the recent extreme flooding in the river still has the flow at a dangerous level.

There is an odd toilet structure up on the side of a hill and further up a ladder. The piping drops considerably. We get out of the car freely nude. I checkout the mechanics out of curiosity.

It feels good to stretch and walk with naked skin through the air. There have been too many days covered in the car and kilt.

While exploring  the choices of 45 camp sites, I take note of the few that afford the most privacy. I consider, even if someone was to camp near us, in spite of the multiple places available. Time is getting toward dark, but ya never know and we still have no idea of the length of our stay.

This entire campground to ourselves is fortunate.

After walking around and checking view angles, we decide on our choice. There is a nice spot to pitch the tent, which will be open-topped to watch the stars and enjoy the cool evening air.

DF is happy , laughing about her new digs, which is a rustic ramada in a thick desert. She parades around like a 1950’s housewife in a commercial, delighted with her new “modern” kitchen.

She gathers the cook stove, while I create our new villa’s bedroom.

We hear the others leave. We check to make sure, taking a nude walk. It is probably a quarter mile over to the toilet and the boat launch is beyond that. Dusk arrives.

Shortly after our return, a camper van arrives. It begins to camp and then, leaves by the time we finish eating.

The sun sets late, but when the stars come out and there is no moon, we are stunned. The dark sky out here in this remote part of the continent brings out stars, as I cannot remember ever seeing. They are huge and bright. The entire sky is like a Milky Way. I swear that I have never experienced actual star shadows. These bright and infinitely numerous beacons keep us rapt in the warm night air and quiet.

We are too occupied in our moment of peaceful wonderment to think about tomorrow, as we fall off to sleep after a long day….

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